Once upon a time, I had health issues, resulting in my having to go up to University Hospital in Iowa City once a year in my youth. It was typically routine, but every year, either my mom or dad would take me out of school and we’d head up. A lot of times it was my dad, since Mom had to handle my brother and sister. And when it was him, we’d often stop at The Highlander Supper Club, which was attached to a Swinging Sixties style hotel right off the Dodge Street exit—easily visible from Interstate 80.
It was always good. The first time we went was probably the late ‘80s or so. I almost always had the ham steak; it was always really good and I didn’t really like steak until a few years later.
It was always swank and comfortable. Low lighting, coffered ceilings with chandeliers, friendly waitresses. And excellent food.
The last time we went, I was probably in high school, and we both got the prime rib, which was fantastic. But about a year later, when both my mom and dad went with (this was when I was getting my first cochlear implant), and we decided to stop for lunch. Sadly, the old dining room was shuttered, and the ‘new’ restaurant was off the main lobby, down the hall. It was just OK. The food was similar to Bennigans or Fridays—nothing to make a special stop for.
After that, we never went there again, and I think the new restaurant didn’t last long anyway. The hotel slowly went downhill from laziness, lack of funds, or both. Around 2018 I went there because a Studebaker Drivers Club show was being held in the parking lot. I didn’t go in, but the show was excellent. And the building was definitely looking worn and neglected, if not precisely seedy.
Around the same time my folks drove up to Riverside Casino for a music concert, and decided to stay there as they didn’t want to drive an hour on 80 at midnight. My mom later said it was pretty shabby, and they had regretted stopping there instead of a Best Western or Comfort Inn.
Fast forward to 2020. A couple my Uncle Dave knows bought the property after the previous lessee defaulted. It was kind of a mess. Dave said there were actually trees growing around the indoor pool because the roof was shot. Anyway, they sunk a ton of money into it and it is now pretty damn nice—though the driveway could use a new coat of hottop.
The inside however, is all new and extremely attractive. There had been a restaurant there since the new owners renovated, but it was just a restaurant, not very supper clubbish. But just recently, they renamed it, revamped the menu, and officially opened on April 4th. They’d had a soft opening the previous few weeks, just on weekends, for brunch.
It would be an understatement to say I was extremely excited by these developments. I also just realized I failed to mention my grandparents, Bob and Ruby Klockau, frequented The Highlander a lot in the Sixties and Seventies. Back then, they thought nothing of driving an hour for a good meal. And sometimes they would stay for the weekend, enjoy the pool, and visit my uncle, who attended the University of Iowa from 1976-80.
So it was with no small amount of excitement I drove up yesterday to meet up with my aunt and uncle and check it out. And it was excellent. We actually did not dine in the old supper club location, as that has been renovated into a very cool bar. But the food and service was excellent, and the place was busy! I hadn’t seen this many cars in the parking lot in 20 years or more. It was heartening, to say the least.
I had the requisite gin and tonic and surf and turf—in this case prime rib (a VERY generous portion) and bacon-wrapped shrimp, that favorite of Ron Swanson.
I’ll be back!
There needs to be a revival of Sinatra’s America since the current culture is so lame. Frank left us the soundtrack, time for everyone to turn up the music and get swanky!
surf and turf is nearly always choice
love studebakers too