299 Comments
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Jan 24, 2023
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Jack Baruth's avatar

Poor Invicta. They tried their best.

Ronnie Schreiber's avatar

Some of their Pro Divers are attractive, very inexpensive, and not made in China.

Ronnie Schreiber's avatar

I have an Orient Kamasu in JPS colors that looks really nice with a black mesh Geckota strap.

seatosky's avatar

Four 4 Jewels, so is that 16?

Jack Baruth's avatar

Four to the fourth power perhaps!

Ronnie Schreiber's avatar

There's a watchmaker in Manchester, UK on YouTube named Nekkid Watchmaker, rumored to have been involved with https://www.speake-marin.com/. His accent sounds south Asian but I can't quite place it. His videos are mostly restorations of very worn or beat up high quality watches. He's pointed out that beyond a certain point the number of jewels can be superfluous, where they are jeweling bearings that don't really need them. He's also found watches that say 39 jewels on the dial but the company (or possibly a watchmaker) have used a less bejeweled movement.

I suppose four jewels is better than none. As a novelty I bought a watch from a guy in France who made watches that replicated the face and hands of the counterclockwise Hebrew tower clock in Prague. When the battery ran down the watchmaker that I use said it needed a cleaning and that he wouldn't waste money cleaning that movement.

AK47isthetool's avatar

I am not sure if I would stand in line for a trip to the actual moon. It is an interesting idea from a business model. It reminds me of something burned into my brain from a field trip to an art museum decades ago: I think someone had an easel set up and was copying a painting, so of course being raised on crime shows we asked the docent if they were worried about forgers swapping the real thing. She said as long they used a canvas that was 2" smaller or larger than the original they were free to copy away.

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Jan 24, 2023
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silentsod's avatar

I have ancestors from the Isles and am a natural born queuer.

Scott's avatar

That would be a queue :-;

Erik's avatar

I'm with you. I can't imagine anything I'd be less likely to stand in line for then a fashion watch.

Jon Lambert's avatar

Great article. I am wearing my Planet Ocean today.

Jack Baruth's avatar

You and Bark are fellow oceanographers. I should have bought one when they were four grand.

Dean's avatar

I have mostly Seiko these days as I work my way up the watch hierarchy. I'm old enough to remember when Swatch was "the" fashion watch for high-schoolers, but I never had one back then. I started to look at the Moonswatch, thinking it would be a fun knock-around to have. I even stopped by the Mall of America store a couple of times, but they never had any in stock. I wound up getting a WAKTU51 instead, which does have the SISTEM51 movement and is closer to the watches of my youth. I prefer the better movement - imagine my surprise when I saw it still ticking 3 days after wearing it last, and still within a couple of seconds of set time. I also won't feel bad when a $150 watch is worn out and I can just toss it. I still come down on the side of genius by the Swatch group.

Jack Baruth's avatar

That WAKTU51 is great! Total OG Swatch vibe.

Chuck S's avatar

I'm old enough to have worn Swatches three at a time on my wrist, as was the fashion (at my school at least) back then.

PaulyG's avatar

Kinda reminds me of the 1970's brougham auto designer editions: Bill Blass, Givenchy, Gucci. Fashion for the masses!

PaulyG's avatar

and I have always been a utilitarian watch guy. Current watch: Garmin 945.

Scott's avatar

I might be a third group- I don’t care to own an Omega of any type because I like my Deepsea and not much can match its looks and performance. However, I’d happily buy my wife and daughters moonswatches if they weren’t so hard to get as I am unwilling to wait in line for anything. I like the moonswatch more than the regular speedmaster because I like swatches more than Omegas.

Danimal's avatar

Owner of a Speedmaster Moonphase (black), I've had many thoughts about the arrival of the MoonSwatch.

I've concluded it is likely worth it to buy one or two MoonSwatches for everyday wear, and put my real one on the watch winder, if only to save some scratches and the chance that a passerby wants my 5-figure Swiss special.

A few reasons I won't go Rolex:

-Ubiquity ruins luxury...At Bal Harbour Shops last weekend I think 80%+ people I saw had a Rolex. If everyone is a VIP, how can anyone be a VIP?

-Theft... In Jo'Burg South Africa a letter was left on my hotel room desk warning that gangs scouted Rolex watches at Sandton Mall (nicest in town) and would rob you once you left the building. Put it in a few rap music videos here in the States and the idea of this happening doesn't seem so foreign.

-"An Omega is a tool for people who like watches....A Rolex is a watch for people who are tools". Omega is much tougher on wear items like magnetism than a Rolex, and better balances the IYKYK watch fans with not being so obscure it is unknown.

Jack Baruth's avatar

The idea that Rolexes are everywhere reminds me of a rather arch comment I heard from an autowriter once that the Phaeton-based Bentley Continental GT was "the Beverly Hills Camry". Like -- both statements are correct, but they are also unsettling for a reason I can't quite pinpoint.

I don't own a Rolex. I bought the original bronze Tudor Black Bay when I was in London 6 years ago; it's very nice but it doesn't make me want to own more of them.

Jon Lambert's avatar

"Rolexes" are everywhere.

Joshua Fromer's avatar

Funny, back when I was spending a lot of time maxing out my credit card at various Beverly Hill's restaurants, I'd often remark that the G63 was basically a minivan for West LA soccer moms. Even more hilarious is that my then new Subaru WRX would often garner more attention from the valets than many of the European whips.

silentsod's avatar

There was a chance those valets could buy a Subaru WRX!

silentsod's avatar

"When I was younger I regret to say that I took watch ownership rather seriously"

Yet I am supposed to believe this line indicates you no longer take it seriously after reading this article?

Jack Baruth's avatar

Nowadays, I take nothing seriously but my PSA number and the work of Britte Lagcher.

Jesse Butler's avatar

I wish they would just sell the damn thing online already. I don’t wanna take a two hour train ride to New York City just to wait in line and find out the thing is sold. I want one, but not bad enough to pay a penny more than the retail price. Until I take a trip to the city or they sell it online, it looks like my Seiko SKX is gonna continue to be daily, much abuse taking watch.

Mark Baruth's avatar

They’ll never sell it online.

Jack Baruth's avatar

Yeah, they're taking too much pleasure in the statement that "Moonswatch has a more exclusive distribution network than Glashutte"

Drunkonunleaded's avatar

I had no idea these were limiting the number of retail outlets for these. I tried to buy two last week and was dumbfounded that nobody carried them. The guy in the airport Swatch store looked at me like I was an idiot.

Jack Baruth's avatar

I believe there are maybe 20 outlets across the USA, and four of them are in NYC.

Jesse Butler's avatar

I’m sure never in the immediate future, but I’m holding out hope for some point in the distant future.

Mark Baruth's avatar

They’ve stated on multiple occasions that they will not.

Jesse Butler's avatar

Damn. I was holding out hope, remembering that it briefly appeared online and then they took away the buy button option quickly thereafter.

S2kChris's avatar

I’m pretty much the opposite of a watch guy. I bought a Shinola Argonite-5021 over a “better” Hamilton because the Shinola was bigger and looked better on my giant gorilla wrist. It replaced my 15y/o Eco-Drive which finally bit the dust. And my wife doesn’t know it yet but she’s buying me an Apple Watch Ultra for my birthday next month because again, it’s big and looks better than my petite 4y/o current Apple Watch I wear any time I’m not wearing a button down shirt.

All that said, I could never buy one of those G-Shocks. Man they’re ugly. I may be misremembering, but I vaguely recall them being the Android to the ubiquitous Ironman’s Apple in middle school 25+ years ago; you got the G-Shock if you weren’t cool enough for the Ironman. A quick Google tells me the 100 lap Ironman I got back in the late 1990s is now a $500 watch? I think I still have it in a drawer somewhere. Hmm.

Jack Baruth's avatar

I can't get over the very funny thing I read a while ago that wearing an Apple Watch makes the wearer look like a Spy Kid.

S2kChris's avatar

Probably fair, but they’re so ubiquitous here that they don’t really make any sort of statement at all. “That person is wearing an Apple Watch” is like saying “That person is wearing shoes.” Well of course they are.

Jack Baruth's avatar

For that reason alone, I will never stop giving the idiots at Samsung my money for phones.

Ronnie Schreiber's avatar

Do your Samsungs slow down? Mine seems to be lagging these days but it could be confirmation bias from something that I heard Louis Rossmann say.

silentsod's avatar

If the underlying OS is updated I would posit software bloat/creep.

There's a common assumption, which isn't necessarily wrong on desktop, that hardware is fast enough/memory rich enough you can be inefficient in lots of ways and that's fine until it isn't. This is particularly true in battery limited applications, where I want to say Apple was caught downclocking the CPU in order not to kill battery life at the expense of operational speed on older phones.

Ronnie Schreiber's avatar

Would that modern software be as efficient as the code used on the Apollo Guidance Computer, which, by the way, was engineered by General Motor's AC Spark Plug division.

It's not well known today, but the American auto industry had an important role in the U.S. space effort. Chrysler made the Redstone rockets used in the Mercury program as well as the engines in the Saturn V. GM designed the Lunar Rover (though Boeing built it). Mission Control in Houston was build by Ford's Philco division.

Scott's avatar

Or an inmate at Camp Holiday!

soberD's avatar

Dick Tracy

Terry Murray's avatar

I have a Submariner, a Cartier Roadster, and three different Shinola watches. What do I wear every day? An Apple watch. Why? Because it's a tool. I can see my next meeting and any other info I need at a glance. I want the Ultra for my birthday as well due to it's size increase.

Ryan K's avatar

I envy your ability to procure $25,000 Nautili, and no longer wonder how you can afford the life of gentleman racer and writer

Jack Baruth's avatar

I don't have a fuckin' Nautilus!

Maybe if I could add a zero to my Substack subscriber count.

Mark Baruth's avatar

You could buy the Pagani Design version.

Ryan K's avatar

Ha. More thinking that if you can find a few of them at $25k you can flip them and not worry about another job for awhile.

Jack Baruth's avatar

Oh. I think they're headed back down that way. God knows I skipped enough of them at $14k.

tyler's avatar

The placement of the subdials triggers the uncanny valley for me. Omegas line is a mess. Coaxial escapement means thick cases. Their best watch is the new omega deville tresor chronometer, and its only wearable because it omits the rotor. Sadly, its 100% polish only, limiting its versatility. And "deville tresor" screams dbag (sorry). I think porsche wants to be aston martin, not the rolex (heh) or porsche of the 70s.

Sherman McCoy's avatar

Omega’s product line IS a mess. Vast (too many SKUs) and difficult to navigate online.

Jon Lambert's avatar

Coaxial escapement means thick cases but it also has not been replicated. Rolex has not made a movement advancement in ages.

I own one of the first coaxial POs, almost 20 years and not a single service. Still keeps great time.

Read up on the fellow that invented the coaxial and then report back.

tyler's avatar

I already have. It's a debate that will never end. For me, it's more trouble than it's worth. Omega had to change the beat rate and amplitude from the original design. There are other escapement designs out there that show promise. We'll see.

Jon Lambert's avatar

What debate is there? Omega can be so bold they display the movement though the caseback. You don't even need a loop to spot a fake. Just turn it over.

It's like saying "HEY CHINA REP THIS! GOOD LUCK!" Then they drop the mic and wait patiently for a response that has yet come.

Meanwhile John Mayer is buying fake Rolexes because they never really had an in house chronograph movement. Oh wait. That didn't happen...

JMcG's avatar

Cessna built a Light Sport Aircraft around a decade ago. It was called the Skycatcher and was built in ...China.

They were supposed to come in under 100k, but ballooned pretty quickly.

I don’t think their hearts were in it.

Jack Baruth's avatar

Big oof. No wonder I never heard of it.

Adam 12's avatar

Came here to post the same thing. They tried the light sport market and it was not up to the same tasks the reliable 150 or 152 is up to and still soldiering on in training. A Skycatcher would be toast in most training departments in no time.

I will however drop Omega/Rolex money on  avionics and spend the same price to get it installed. When I can fly and IFR approach to minimums break out and land, that’s worth all the money to me.

Spend the money on skills which produce experiences. Same as you do racing. You can go cross country in a jet or a 150 and have totally different experiences. The slower of the two is more fun truthfully.

Got rid of my fancy stuff years ago. Still rock a Citizens Eco drive stainless watch. It does everything that I needed to do and most people can’t tell the difference. 

Thinking about getting my son a Hamilton Khaki for his Eagle Scout present and something fancier for dress since he is taking to looking good in school much faster than his old man did.

Jonathan H.'s avatar

I love watches. Especially mechanical watches. With all my other hobbies I don’t have the disposable income to spend big money on them. I have four G-Shocks, none special. Four seiko automatics split between divers and field watches. And a handful of others hovering in the $3-500 range. I always wanted a Speedmaster Pro. I loved the history, the style and it’s non-flashy nature. So I decided to spend the money about ten years ago. I wanted one with the tritium lume because I love how it ages. So that meant used. Something before the late nineties when they switched to Superluminova. So I found the newest one I could find and paid a bit of a premium for one with the box and papers from a reputable source. I love it. I love winding it.

That being said, I will be getting a Moonswatch once I decide which color I like. Since I have the original I don’t feel the need to get either of the models that resemble it. I feel like you’re spot on in regards to what it does for Omegas brand overall. It can only enhance it.

Jack Baruth's avatar

I think you're a very good example of a Speedy owner who will also be a Swatchy owner, and you are far from alone.

Sherman McCoy's avatar

0 - Provided I were in the market for such a watch (and I may yet purchase a MoonSwatch at some point), the Mission to Uranus would be the obvious choice.

1 - I recall test driving a Speedmaster at Tourneau when I was in college; I came away a little disappointed with it (and have never owned one).

2 - The comparisons with, e.g., downmarket German luxury cars break down a bit for me because the MoonSwatch is at such a low price point as to be a trivial expenditure for virtually everyone in America (at MSRP of $260). That’s a meal for two, an article of clothing, a fraction of a new smartphone, etc. In my anecdotal / firsthand experience, I don’t know anyone that can’t swing $260 for a toy.

3 - And speaking of anecdotes, I don’t know or interact regularly with anyone who owns (or at least frequently wears) an Omega (any model). Rolex is a different story.

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Jan 23, 2023
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Sherman McCoy's avatar

For some folks, I’m sure the $260 figure is unachievable, but a $260 car payment implies a substantial down payment or a very lengthy loan (or both).

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Jan 24, 2023
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Jan 24, 2023
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Ice Age's avatar

My business or not, I'd find it fascinating to know how, um, "leveraged" those who have exotic cars, luxury watches, McMansions, etc really are.

Mark Baruth's avatar

Or a lease. Plenty of people in Detroit rolling on $169 a month.

Dan's avatar

Or a very cheap car

yossarian's avatar

i should be in that category as i already have multiple watches and am behind in my bills. if you want a solid beater get a casio duro. it’s a real analog 200 meter dive watch fir $45.

psmith's avatar

Nice, these are clean as hell. Very tempted, especially at the price.

Midwife Crisis's avatar

The best reference point for a Moonswatch is an Apple Watch SE, which is $280 at your local Best Buy for the bigger one.

JMcG's avatar

60.00/week at a buy here/pay here.

Jack Baruth's avatar

I will tartly suggest that the kind of people who own Rolexes are largely the kind of people who buy new Porsches.

Omega owners are all men of distinction and exemplary taste, with the notable exception of anyone who bought a "007" watch.

Sherman McCoy's avatar

FORTUNATELY, I have never purchased a new Porsche AND I don’t own a Rolex (at least at the moment)!

I can think of several businesses that I know (intellectually) are large, but I don’t think I know many (any?) of their customers:

The Gap

Pepsi (specifically Pepsi, not PepsiCo); this is not limited to my residence in Atlanta

Burger King

Omega is another example

Steve R's avatar

Some women too. I bought my wife a Constellation as a birthday present.

Ice Age's avatar

You bought her an aircraft carrier? Wow.

Sure beats a Lexus for Christmas.

Adrian Clarke's avatar

Or a 007 Aston Martin.

Jack Baruth's avatar

Oh, the HELL with those people.

Sherman McCoy's avatar

I am embarrassed to admit that I am “friends” (on Facebook) with a fellow who convinced his wife to have a James Bond-themed wedding. Complete with music, etc.

Jack Baruth's avatar

I'm not sure what is more nerdish: doing that, or my insistence that PEOPLE ARE MISUNDERSTANDING THE BOOKS

Sherman McCoy's avatar

There is a fellow in NorCal with a McLaren P1 that has a 007 Gun Barrel graphic on the rear quarter panels; he recently made the following declaration on Rennlist:

“I’m sort of the ring leader with tracking and supercars over by my way in California and know many pro’s”

After which, I quoted the shortest Bible verse in response. He was profoundly displeased at the lack of respect accorded to him, and I followed up with another piece of Biblical wisdom:

”Pride goeth before destruction, and an haughty spirit before a fall”

We appear to be in a state of uneasy detente at the moment.

Jack Baruth's avatar

He's a ring leader! Jesus wept indeed.

Ice Age's avatar

Sounds like those itasha geeks who put decals of anime girls on their cars.

Gene's avatar

There's an essay here

Christo's avatar

How could anyone misunderstand the books? There's nothing deep enough to misunderstand -- just Ian Fleming's daydreams about being a spy.

Jack Baruth's avatar

Well they took a bunch of books about an orphan who kills people for the government and turned them into Roger Moore movies.

Terry Murray's avatar

I own a stainless Submariner my wife got me for our tenth anniversary 22 years ago and I have bought new Porsches, although not recently, as I picked up a nice used Boxster T. It is a very good four cylinder sports car but was a bit more than $24,999.00.

So I guess I am guilty as charged.

Jack Baruth's avatar

I'm not sure you're exactly in the box I'm describing :)

Canada Goose's avatar

My daily watch is a limited edition Speedmaster CK 2998. Probably the only thing I own that has appreciated, since I got it in 2016. It's the same blue colour as my LC 500.

Unpack that, Jack

Adrian Clarke's avatar

Anyone who owns an LC500 is clearly someone of taste. Fantastic looking things.

Jon Lambert's avatar

The Mission to Uranus is much more than $260 I am afraid.

Jack Baruth's avatar

Sometimes it's free!